But I Digress…

And also closed there after a terrific week in the best weather I’ve ever had anywhere—blue skies, sunshine and temps in the low seventies. October is a wonderful time to be in Venice (and lots of other places) as the tourist frenzy has passed.

I was part of a watercolor sketching workshop organized by Il Chiostro which offers workshops in painting, photography, writing, music, cooking and more. Many- though not all- programs take place in Italy. For more information: https://ilchiostro.com/.

Sketching and painting occupied some of my time. I also went to the Rialto Fish Market that also sells meat and produce where I met this gorgeous vegetable, (a kind of radicchio said to be great for grilling).

One day we went to Burano, the island with brightly colored houses, known for lace-making which seems to have semi–transitioned to selling glass mostly from nearby Murano although some likely comes from China. From the private boat that zipped us from the Dorsoduro to Burano we saw Building Bridges, an installation of six pairs of hands arching high above a waterway at the Arsenale shipyard.

We stayed at a former convent (the only time this nice Jewish girl has slept with a cross over her bed) in the Dorsoduro, one of my favorite areas in this glorious city.

None of us rode in a gondola but here is a link to a Radiolab podcast that offers a different take on the life of a gondolier. Spoiler alert: it deals with transsexuality and has some fairly dark moments. https://radiolab.org/podcast/the-gondolier

On this Venice visit I skipped St. Mark’s but paid my respects to Monteverdi, widely regarded as the father of opera, buried at the Basilica Santa Maria Glorioso dei Frari, which also houses several paintings by Titian and a wonderful sculpture  of John the Baptist by Donatello. Other time was spent getting lost which is far more fun in Venice than at home in New York City; small bouts of retail therapy and lots of eating and drinking. In NYC an Aperol Spritz holds zero interest but watching the sun set over a canal with one in my hand was perfection.

Venice, one of the most captivating cities in the world, is awash (almost literally) with art, music, masks, food, wine and other delights. There is always a little alleyway to venture down or a view to appreciate.  It’s a truly magical place.

My top choice for lunch in Venice is a few cicchetti, small pieces of bread topped with all manner of fillings usually accompanied by an ombra (small glass of wine.) On the other side of the canal opposite the site where gondolas are repaired are several spots that serve these bite-sized morsels.

If you want the DIY route,  this one is super simple.

A baguette sliced thinly

Slightly soft brie

Walnuts

Honey

Spread a little cheese on a baguette slice. Top with one or two walnut halves, drizzle with honey. That’s it.

If you insist, sing Oh Solo Mio as you pass these. Or fill glasses with your choice of wine and toast those around you. As was said often at Il Chiostro, “Toccato uno, toccato tutti!” (Toast one, toast all.)

Hello out there.

After a very long, frustrating back and forth, my blog issues MAY be resolved. If you receive this post I’d greatly appreciate knowing, especially from those who used to get scary returns saying that the post was potentially dangerous.

Look forward to hearing back as that’s the only way I can even attempt to figure out if the issues are behind me.

My best.

The huge DuPont family is descended from Pierre Samuel du Pont de Nemours, (1739–1817), a minor French aristocrat. The family has been staggeringly wealthy since the mid-19^th century when they founded their fortune in gunpowder.

Among the pleasures of the family were gardens and collecting. Happily for their communities, largely in southern PA and Delaware, they were also into philanthropy.

I recently visited Longwood Gardens and Winthurtur, both developed by DuPonts though different branches of the family, some of whom spell their name with variations.

Longwood was originally home to the Lenape people.  In 1700 a large piece of property was bought by the Peirce family who began developing a huge arboretum that ultimately deteriorated; when the trees were about to be cut down by a lumber company it was bought by Pierre S. Du Pont. Today 1,100 acres include huge gardens, some formal and others wilder; acres of flowers under glass roofs in conservatories and fountains with displays accompanied by music.

There are walks, conservation programs, holiday events, special programs for kids and more. There is a large organ and a behind-the-scenes- look at its inner workings.

The gardens are gorgeous with different blooms depending on the season. You can walk miles or sit and enjoy sights in front of you. (I walked.) Lucky for me while far from empty the place was relatively uncrowded, perhaps due to my visiting on a weekday and some not wanting to fork over thirty to thirty-eight dollars for a ticket.

Pierre DuPont was president of  DuPont from 1915 to 1919 and on the  Board until 1940. He became president of General Motors and was on its Board. Married at age forty-five to his first cousin, Alice Belin, the couple had no children. Interested in education, Du Pont built many schools in the Brandywine area.

If Longwood is outstanding for its estate, trees and plants, Winthurtur, in nearby Delaware, is noted for collections. Owned by Henry Francis du Pont , a cousin of Pierre’s, it has incredible, enormous old-growth trees and a gigantic collection of well, everything: china, pottery, books, silver, furniture and more. The house, now a museum, contains 175 period-room displays and approximately 90,000 objects. To make space for his burgeoning collections, HF removed bathrooms and closets from the (large, not particularly beautiful) house.  In 1951 The Galleries, a separate, purpose-built space that houses more objects and displays, was built. At a certain point I got furnitured-out.

There is a shuttle from the Visitors Center that winds through gardens and deposits you where you wish including at the house. Mike, my shuttle driver, described what we were seeing as “outstanding” or ‘amazing’ at least twenty times.

Both properties have cafes offering typical caffe food. Each also has a fine dining restaurant – if this interests you make a reservation well in advance.

It’s easy to see each property in a day. I’m still unsure of which I preferred as Longwood is more grand open spaces and Winthurtur more about the accumulation of beautiful ‘things.’  If you visit the area see both.

Recipes from the Du Ponts include macaroons which I’m skipping as my macaroon experience took hours and wasn’t very good. I may also not serve this drink which was called the Hotel Du Pont and served at the Wilmington, Del. hotel it is named for.

Hotel Du Pont Cocktail

• 1 ½ ounces V.S.O.P. Cognac, preferably Guillon Painturaud (a brand I don’t know)
• 1 ½ ounces fino sherry, preferably Alvear (also unfamiliar)
• 1 dash Angostura bitters
• Ice cubes, as needed
• Orange twist, for garnish

Combine Cognac, sherry and bitters in a mixing glass half-filled with ice. Stir until chilled, about 15 seconds. Strain into a chilled coupe (assuming you have one. If you substitute a regular glass the Du Pont ghosts won’t be bothered.)  Squeeze orange twist over drink and drop in.

A votre santé as the Du Ponts may have said.