We Open in Venice…

And also closed there after a terrific week in the best weather I’ve ever had anywhere—blue skies, sunshine and temps in the low seventies. October is a wonderful time to be in Venice (and lots of other places) as the tourist frenzy has passed.

I was part of a watercolor sketching workshop organized by Il Chiostro which offers workshops in painting, photography, writing, music, cooking and more. Many- though not all- programs take place in Italy. For more information: https://ilchiostro.com/.

Sketching and painting occupied some of my time. I also went to the Rialto Fish Market that also sells meat and produce where I met this gorgeous vegetable, (a kind of radicchio said to be great for grilling).

One day we went to Burano, the island with brightly colored houses, known for lace-making which seems to have semi–transitioned to selling glass mostly from nearby Murano although some likely comes from China. From the private boat that zipped us from the Dorsoduro to Burano we saw Building Bridges, an installation of six pairs of hands arching high above a waterway at the Arsenale shipyard.

We stayed at a former convent (the only time this nice Jewish girl has slept with a cross over her bed) in the Dorsoduro, one of my favorite areas in this glorious city.

None of us rode in a gondola but here is a link to a Radiolab podcast that offers a different take on the life of a gondolier. Spoiler alert: it deals with transsexuality and has some fairly dark moments. https://radiolab.org/podcast/the-gondolier

On this Venice visit I skipped St. Mark’s but paid my respects to Monteverdi, widely regarded as the father of opera, buried at the Basilica Santa Maria Glorioso dei Frari, which also houses several paintings by Titian and a wonderful sculpture  of John the Baptist by Donatello. Other time was spent getting lost which is far more fun in Venice than at home in New York City; small bouts of retail therapy and lots of eating and drinking. In NYC an Aperol Spritz holds zero interest but watching the sun set over a canal with one in my hand was perfection.

Venice, one of the most captivating cities in the world, is awash (almost literally) with art, music, masks, food, wine and other delights. There is always a little alleyway to venture down or a view to appreciate.  It’s a truly magical place.

My top choice for lunch in Venice is a few cicchetti, small pieces of bread topped with all manner of fillings usually accompanied by an ombra (small glass of wine.) On the other side of the canal opposite the site where gondolas are repaired are several spots that serve these bite-sized morsels.

If you want the DIY route,  this one is super simple.

A baguette sliced thinly

Slightly soft brie

Walnuts

Honey

Spread a little cheese on a baguette slice. Top with one or two walnut halves, drizzle with honey. That’s it.

If you insist, sing Oh Solo Mio as you pass these. Or fill glasses with your choice of wine and toast those around you. As was said often at Il Chiostro, “Toccato uno, toccato tutti!” (Toast one, toast all.)